With little new parcels to buy or even to lease and most controlled by the same families since end of WWII with little change, it's hard to come across any new domaines in Burgundy. You can see why I was surprised to hear of a new one by the name of Domaine Nicolas Faure in Meuilly that was established as recently as 2011.
It's a lean, basically, one man operation, based in a village that I've never heard of, making wines from lieux-dits I've not come across either.
His resumé reads like a dream:
- Lycée Viticole in Beaune (alongside other talents such as Maxime Cheurlin)
- Worked at Domaine Agnès Paquet in Meloisey
- Pruned 2 months for Benjamin Leroux in Comte Armand
- Pruned 6 months at Domaine de la Romanée-Conti
- 1 year at Jean Louis Chave in Rhone
- Stay at Fromm winery in New Zealand
- Worked back at DRC after NZ
And then, without family holdings or inheritance, he opened his own domaine in 2011 but also works Prieure Roch in between. If anything he reminds me greatly of Benjamin Leroux - another top talent that equally has worked all over the world and started his own estate in 2007.
In days where people boast of starting lean, low barrier to entry, tech startups (more apps, more cloud-based software etc.) - I really admire this old-school entrepreneurship in capital-intensive business. They're not looking to "scale up" and exit quick but rather looking and operating for the long term.
Anyway I digress. The wines are very bright and refreshing, surprisingly easily to drink despite being such a young vintage. The holdings aren't the most prime plots but you can tell he has done his best with what is available. The Nuit St. Georges Les Herbues is an interesting lieu-dit to note; it's never been worked on before as it's as steep as Mosel but Nicolas Faure is one of the first to do so and to such ravishing results.
bourgogne "Aux argillieres" 2015: bright, fresh and suprisingly easily drinking. extremely well balanced with a short finish but drinks like a dream.
aloxe-corton 2015: deeper and richer in complexity to the bourgogne and gorgeous nose. general winner amongst the others who tried it.
Nuit st georges "Les herbues" 2015: more tart and vegetal compared to the aloxe-corton and slow to open up. however once it blooms it soars, with great salty and mineral edges to the wine.