Last week I went to Ichu for a friend’s birthday. I was really looking forward after learning about Virgilio Martinez of Central Restaurante in Lima, Peru and subsequently watching his episode on Netflix. I always saw as a kind of René Redzepi of Peru, except more interesting because of the diversity of food, people and culture in South America.
However Ichu is not simply Centrale 2.0 or Centrale Lite. That is not to say the food isn’t good. We ordered across the menu, in small plates to share. As a caveat, I am someone that detests small sharing plates and hope this trend dies before the decade is over. The stand outs from the evening were definitely the charred avocado (which is completely different from your basic brunch toast affair, TRY IT), quinoa, whole fish, uni rice and the sweet potato. Everything was kind of a wash — not particularly bad but I have trouble recalling it as I type. It is also quite well priced and you do get good variety for your money (a rarity I might add in Hong Kong).
The wine is decent - a good coverage of everything but sadly not as interesting as I would like it to be. I wish there were weird Chilean/Argentinian not seen elsewhere. We settled for the Thévenet Morgon Cuvee VV 2016, a wine that I have meaning to try for some time now. It was beautiful and easy to drink straight out of the bottle. Stylistically, it is more similar to Foillard than Marcel Lapierre — on the more finesse side with gorgeous red fruit. Not as much complexity due to its youth but still suppleness and depth that shows much promise if given time.
Again I do think that my experience is coloured due to prior expectations. Though the overall experience is not bad, I’m afraid you will have to get on a plan to Lima after all.
Ichu. 3/F, H Queen’s Building, 80 Queen’s Road, Central, Hong Kong. Tel: +852 2477 7717