Domaine des Lambrays 2018 from Cask
We were most unfortunate in that we were super rushed into going to Domaine des Lambrays. The price you pay for scheduling up to 6 domaine visits a day. Jacques Devauges however I think did the best job as he could have, as even he had to rush out the door for his next meeting soon after.
We quickly zipped up to the top of the Clos des Lambrays. From there, he said, you can see the magnificence of this grand cru plot. It is surprisingly steep, which you don’t realise until you peer over the edge and it’s a good ~10m fall into the vines below. Again this is one of those grand cru plots that are almost monoples — a few rows are still owned stubbornly by Romain Taupenot of Domaine Taupenot-Merme, much to the annoyance of Bernard Arnault. From the Clos des Lambrays vantage point, you can see the entire town of Morey St. Denis laid out in front of you. It’s majestic.
LVMH bought the domaine in 2014 and installed Devauges there from Clos de Tart. I have not been to the domaine before it was acquired but the whole operation still looks (at least to my untrained eye) unchanged. Devauges is also a through and through Morey guy, explaining to us the significance of Les Loups (the Wolves in French), which the people of Morey St. Denis identifies themselves as. Only then did the two wolves in the crest of the Domaine des Lambrays made any sense — duh.
I have tasted the older odd bottles of Domaine des Lambrays before they were quite meh, not particularly the most interesting wines that Burgundy had to offer. This time I was blown away by the depth, the purity, the silkiness and the finesse. Who said big money have to ruin everything?
Domaine des Lambrays Morey St. Denis 2018: Insanely rich, dense and quite powerful black fruit and liquorice for “just” a village. Completely blown away, this might the best MSD village I have tasted ever. 2018 is such a massive vintage and they really tempered the heat and power well here. Gorg!
Domaine des Lambrays Morey St. Denis 1er Cru Les Loups 2018: A blend of three parcels. Less dense and rich than the village but has more lift and power. There is a delicacy and florality to this which is super charming. Black fruit structure through and through though to remind it’s still a 1er cru. Adore.
Domaine des Lambrays Clos des Lambrays Grand Cru 2018: Opulent. Majestic. Regal. This wine is not here to play but to slay (sorry have been watching too much Rupaul’s Drag Race lately on Netflix). Crunch black cherry blended seamlessly with rich plum and sweet spice drowning you in its impossible inky depths. It’s hard to not be seduced. Shante, you stay.
All wines tasted at the domaine in June 2019.