Domaine J.F. Mugnier 2018 from Cask
This was one of the top domaines that I have been looking forward to visit the most this entire trip. It did not disappoint.
Domaine J.F. Mugnier is one of those domaines that are curiously not as popular in Hong Kong as it is elsewhere in the world such as U.S., Europe etc. It is slowly now coming to the fore as people get priced out of other top Chambolle estates such as Leroy, Roumier and Comte Georges de Vogüé. That is not to say that J.F. Mugnier is cheaper by any means (gods no) however more people are more aware of the domaine now that they are forced to diversify their choices.
And perhaps because it’s not as popular in Asia, it is relatively hard to find Mugnier in Hong Kong. The Musigny is also ridiculously hard to find now that Frédéric chose to keep the release back (if I recall correctly, the current release vintage is 2013) since 2015. I am of the opinion that they genuinely do not want the wines to be drunken that early and Frédéric’s right hand François (I did not catch his last name) looked pained as he extracted the wines from the barrel and into our glasses. How cool is it though to try a wine that won’t be on the market for at least another 5 or so years?
But perhaps the most remarkable wine that stood out to me was their Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Clos de la Marechale, even against their most famous holdings. This is the first time I’ve tasted two different vintages in one sitting and I finally understand why they consider this their flagship (yes their largest holding and their monopoly but it’s hard to comprehend when they have some faaabulous parcels of grand cru). Truly a Nuits St. Georges that also makes your forget that you are drinking a “mere” Nuits St. George in a very good way — superbly elegant and hauntingly seductive compared to what is typical from this village.
Domaine J.F. Mugnier Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Clos de la Marechale Blanc 2017: First time trying a white from Mugnier. There is lot of stone fruit notes, an abundance of hay and honey. Beautiful in its purity and minerality. Very wholesome.
Domaine J.F. Mugnier Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Clos de la Marechale 2018: Super intense from the get go. Both black and red fruit notes are quite prominent here. There is an ever so sight hint of rusticity but still overall elegant, juicy and fresh with structure.
Domaine J.F. Mugnier Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Clos de la Marechale 2008: Great to taste 10 year old example of the same wine. The intense smokiness and tobacco notes are in full bloom here but not overpowering. The ripe strawberry and plum takes you away and is evened out by touches of vegetal mushroom notes. A Burgundy that is starting to reach its prime.
Domaine J.F. Mugnier Chambolle Musigny 2018: This was distinctly raspberry like as oppose to lots of cherry notes in younger Burgundy. It is very vibrant and gourmand; I want to keep drinking this but unfortunately we have to move on.
Domaine J.F. Mugnier Chambolle Musigny 1er Cru Les Fuees 2018: Lots of lush strawberry notes with a touch of black plum and black cherry. The density of the terroir here really shows. Surprisingly open, there is good mineral backbone here as well to hold everything up.
Domaine J.F. Mugnier Chambolle Musigny 1er Cru Les Amoureuses 2018: This was actually tried after Bonnes Mares, because it was actually more intense. There is stronger coolie notes here than other cuvees, but also the typical floral, strawberry, perfume notes that we so closely associate with Chambolle. There is a distinct saline finish to the wine, giving it clear character. Almost like a rose petal in the mouth.
Domaine J.F. Mugnier Bonnes Mares 2018: Understandably not as open as the other wines. There are very rich and intense lush red and black fruit — an even mix of raspberries, strawberries, plum, cherries and cranberries. A slight vegetal and black tea after taste. A wine to watch.
Domaine J.F. Mugnier Musigny 2018: This was something of a dark horse, brimming full of violet and vegetal notes with opulent black fruit — black cherry, black plum, bramble and blackberries. What was so astonishing with its silkiness and immense depth and finish, so long and deep I find myself almost lost in its flavours.
All wines were tasted at the estate in June 2019.