Domaine Marquis d'Angerville 2017
After writing about the Guillaume D’Angerville’s wines in Jura, it seems criminal not to write further about his actual Burgundy estate.
My jaw dropped when we pulled up at the estate in Volnay. With a magnificent rose garden out front, the winery itself is more of a beautiful grand house with the cellars underneath. Even more strikingly, their famous monopole Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Ducs was just around the corner from the house, on the slope as you can see below . Francois from Jura was our host as well, as Guillaume was away on tour in the US.
Domaine Marquis D’Angerville is one estate that is not nearly as popular in Hong Kong as it is in the US or the UK. Perhaps because it’s Volnay, versus other more popular areas such Vosne Romanee with no grand cru? However it is slowly becoming a stronger name, with many finding it a comparative bargain against bigger Burgundy names. Still it’s not completely easy to find it here, with only the occasional bottle popping up as loose bottles in random wine stores.
This is another estate whose 2017s are blowing me away. Forget all the talk about the 2018s, the 2017s are truly where it’s at. It’s also my first time tasting through different Volnay 1er Crus, getting a very clear sense of terroir and sensibility of each plot.
Volnay 1er Cru 2017: Lovely and fresh with ripe strawberries and a touch of spice. So lush and easy to drink now.
Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Angles 2017: I always think this is underrated compared to the others. The bouquet is extraordinarily delicate but clearly floral with rose petal notes. There is lots of ripe red fruit with touches of black fruit and spice; the tannins are silky and easy on the palate.
Volnay 1er Cru Fremiets 2017: The nose and palate are a touch more intense here. Abundance of ripe black fruits with some red fruit, mint and herbs as well. The structure here is more obvious as well with good minerality.
Volnay 1er Cru Caillerets 2017: Supposedly the most noble and elegant of the premier crus. I tend to agree as it has the delicacy of Clos dse Angles but with the stronger punch of the other 1er crus: dense red fruit that is incredibly juicy with good amount of minerality. Lovely wine.
Volnay 1er Cru Taillepieds 2017: This is a personal favourite lieu-dit of mine. It’s not as easily open as the other wines but great red fruit and minerality on the nose. It has a firm structure but not too dense and great luscious finish. Pretty.
Volnay 1er Cru Champans 2017: The cherry notes here are sharper on the nose, with some bramble and floral notes. The palate is definitely more raspberry than cherry unlike the other 1er crus, but it is intensely perfumed and intoxicating. You don’t even notice the tannins.
Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Ducs 2017: Deep intense cherry nose with black tea notes. Lots of depth and dimension on palate, with rich and lush red fruit and sweet spice finish. Gorgeous!
Meursault 1er Cru Santenots 2017: Pretty stone fruit and honey notes. Light but no depth and no weight. Some minerality. It’s not totally finished until final racking in July (we tasted in early June).
All wines tasted at the domaine early June, 2019.